On this page, you can assemble a custom watch by choosing from various cases, dials, and hands, or select a watch from a template and then customize it. All the necessary print files are compiled into a ZIP file that you can then download.

Photos of printed watches. Click or tap a watch for a detailed view; you can apply the settings there.

Clock

In this section, design a clock consisting of a case, dial, hands, and movement; view it in the preview, and if you are satisfied with the result, you can download the parts to be printed here download.

Colors

The actual colors of the printed clock are determined by the filaments used. The colors shown here are only an approximation.

3D-Print

The clock consists of the following printed parts:

I recommend using PLA filament for all printed parts, as it is easy to print and, in my experience, yields the best quality results. However, a disadvantage is its low heat resistance; the material begins to soften at around 55 degrees. Therefore, a clock printed in PLA should not be hung in a sauna.

The clock housing (case.stl) is printed using a 0.4 mm nozzle.

The spacer ring (spacer.stl) is also printed using a 0.4 mm nozzle. The ring is normally 17 mm high to ensure there is enough clearance for the hands to move between the hands themselves and the glass pane. For clocks without a second hand, you can reduce the height of the spacer ring by a few millimeters and adjust the housing height accordingly.

The back panel (back-panel.stl), including the printed QR code, is printed using two colors and a support filament with a 0.4 mm nozzle and standard support structures. The color change for the QR code occurs only at the second-to-last layer. If you do not want the QR code to be visible, you can skip the color change.

To print the dial (dial.stl), I use two colors with a 0.2 mm nozzle and a layer height of 0.1 mm.

The color disc (disc.stl) is required only for the Palmerston clock face. It is printed using a 0.2 mm nozzle and a layer height of 0.1 mm, then glued into the clock face. In principle, the clock face and color disc can be printed together, but this results in frequent filament changes and a lower-quality print finish.

I print all other parts—the hour hand, minute hand, second hand, and the axle cover—using a 0.2 mm nozzle and a layer height of 0.1 mm.

Please note that not all filaments can be printed using a 0.2 mm nozzle.

Assembly

To build the clock, in addition to the 3D-printed parts, you will need a glass pane, a mounting disc, and, of course, a clock movement. Since a picture is worth a thousand words, photos of the assembly process will be added here soon …

For the clock face cover, I use a transparent pane with a diameter of 23 cm and a thickness of 2 to 3 mm. You can use acrylic (Plexiglas), standard window glass, or so-called museum glass. Museum glass—sold under various trade names—is a special anti-reflective glass designed for picture frames. It is ideal for these clocks because it minimizes reflections and offers high UV protection. However, having such a glass pane made is not exactly cheap.

The clock face is glued onto a round mounting disc (23 cm diameter) featuring a 10 mm center hole. This increases stability and prevents the clock movement from showing through, as the printed clock face is very thin. I use a 3 mm thick white rigid foam board for this, cutting it to shape with a circle cutter. You can also use other materials, such as wood or plastic, provided the board thickness does not exceed 3 mm.

Suitable clock movements include any standard quartz or radio-controlled movements with center-hole mounting (10 mm shaft diameter) and a shaft length of 14 to 15 mm. The depth of the clock mechanism itself should not exceed 20 mm. These mechanisms come in two versions: with a ticking (stepping) second hand or a sweeping second hand. For clocks without a second hand, this does not matter. For clocks with a second hand, the sweeping version is likely the better choice. In my experience, they offer higher torque and are virtually silent.

To assemble the clock face, first glue the printed face onto the mounting disc using superglue. You can enlarge the center hole using a step drill bit if necessary. Next, insert the clock mechanism and secure it with the central nut. Ensure the mechanism and the clock face are correctly aligned. You should then secure the mechanism in place with a little hot glue.

The optional shaft cap, along with the hour and minute hands, are fitted onto the shaft. The shaft cap can be secured to the nut with a small amount of superglue. The hour and minute hands must fit snugly onto the shafts and should be aligned as parallel as possible to the clock face to prevent them from obstructing each other.

If you want to build a clock with a second hand, attaching it will likely be the biggest challenge. The shaft mount cannot be 3D printed, so you must use an existing second hand—or at least its shaft mount. The mount is usually made of brass and can be detached from the hand. It is then glued into the printed hand using superglue. This must be done precisely, as the shaft mount should sit as perpendicular as possible to the hand.

For final assembly, place the housing upside down on a flat surface and insert the glass pane. The glass pane should be as clean and free of grease as possible. Next, insert the printed spacer ring, followed by the clock face, hands, and movement. Ensure the clock face is correctly aligned. Finally, attach the back panel, making sure it is also properly aligned. Once everything fits and the clock runs smoothly, secure the back panel to the housing with a few drops of hot glue. Hot glue holds the assembly in place but allows for removal if necessary.

Download

The download contains all the necessary print files for the clock you have assembled. They are bundled in a ZIP file.

Download print files

Please note that the files are subject to the Creative Commons NonCommercial License (CC BY-NC) and are intended for personal use only.

Production

Designing a clock and building one are two different things. Creating a design on this website is quick and easy. To build it, however, you need tools and materials—such as a multi-color 3D printer and the appropriate filaments. And then, of course, you need the craftsmanship to pull it off.

If you would like me to handle this, please send an email to webmaster@ludi.de.